I worked in London and Montreal during the 1990s. My own experience started in London and was dominated by women, whereas Montreal was dominated by men, therefore you had to act accordingly. I worked harder, faster, and longer hours in heels and red lips. I also had to know more than anyone else, as I was often the only female on the floor or in a management position, so I felt I had to prove my worth.
The moment I realised the hospitality industry was for me was when I was an openings manager for a pub group in London. We transformed tired venues into gastropubs and bars. One was called Dusk in Marylebone. After opening night, the staff and I kicked off our shoes and drank, ate, and danced the night away.
It was the ultimate feeling of success and achievement after weeks of endless and sleepless nights. There’s nothing like opening with such applaud and doing it with your hospo family.
When we opened Mayfair Lane in 2016, gastropubs didn’t exist in Perth. We were ridiculed for opening a ‘gastro’ pub where everyone would end up being sick. But once we ironed out that issue, every pub became a gastropub. I like to think we pushed the boundaries for pub standards, professionalism, and better food and beverage offerings, especially wine. I couldn’t believe the by-the-glass options were just Sauvignon Blanc Semillon blends, or sweet Riesling.
At the moment I’m a big fan of wines grown in volcanic soils from Etna in Italy as well as wines from Naousa in Northern Greece; Sierra de Gredos in Spain (high-altitude Garnacha); and lighter styles from Lujan de Cuyo in Argentina and Frankland River.
When it comes to curating a wine offering, start with what you love, add what they love, and then fill in the gaps. Also, know your target market. You have to taste everything and be completely and utterly objective about what is going to sell, how you are going to present it, and how much information to give the customer, and celebrate the place and the terroir (quite contentious). My list is divided into countries instead of style or grape.
The most valuable lesson I’ve learned as a hospitality operator is to know who you are, where you want to go, and stick with it. Changing it up half way through can show a lack of confidence and vision. However, once you are there, maintaining momentum and relevancy is tough, especially in the current climate. Once you are in the Australian hospitality industry, you are there for life.
People have your back and respect you, but to be fair, this is the same in all the different countries I have worked in. It’s not just Australia per se, it’s the industry we call hospitality — it’s the second family you never knew you needed.
Foni Politt
