When Esca Group Co-Founder Ibby Moubadder approached Ibrahim Kasif to lead the kitchen at Nour, Kasif was hesitant.
He wondered what he could possibly contribute to the celebrated Middle Eastern restaurant, one with an arguably infallible menu formula – and a hat.
But Moubadder was convinced Kasif was the man for the job, with the chef accepting the offer after Moubadder’s third attempt.
The challenge to create a menu that would stand up to Nour’s celebrated past was no easy feat, but it was a task that “made me feel creative again,” says Kasif, who was the owner and head chef of the now-shuttered Stanbuli.
The menu ideation began with batata harra (Lebanese spicy potatoes). After trying a range of lacklustre, soggy versions of the dish, Kasif decided a superior version would run at Nour.
His version is perfectly crispy and contrasts against a combination of toum and fermented chilli. “It was one of the dishes that was a catalyst moment for me, and it snowballed from there,” says Kasif.
Standouts starters include woodfired stuffed mussels with pine nut rice and chicken fat butter and raw kingfish tabbouleh with horseradish cacik and sesame leaf.
“The mussels are a quintessential Turkish food,” says Kasif. “We have a bit of a playful version of it. We cook ours in chicken stock, chicken fat, and then we roast them again. They go a little dry and charred.”
Hidden under two large sesame leaves is the kingfish tabbouleh. The chef encourages guests to eat the dish with their hands, ripping off part of the leaf and scooping up the tabbouleh.
Moubadder first tried a version of the meal at one of Kasif’s earlier popups. “I was like, ‘You have to have that dish on the menu’,” he says.
Other star items on the menu include dry-aged half duck mishwe with baharat and Ottoman quince sauce; lamb neck inspired by a kebab shop dish; and mountain salad with tomatoes, green olives, pomegranate, walnut and pistachio, which is already “super popular”.
Since it opened, Nour has established itself not only as a highly regarded restaurant by industry professionals, but also as a crowd favourite.
Kasif takes over from Executive Chef Paul Farage, who will stay with the Esca Group in a new role.
“Kasif is the perfect person to lead Nour into its next chapter,” says Moubadder. “Paul has set an extremely high standard, and we know that Kasif’s passion and expertise will continue to elevate Nour.”
“It’s a new chapter for Nour, but one that honours its rich history,” adds Kasif.
Nour is part of the Esca group, which also operates award-winning restaurant Aalia, Japanese izakaya Itō, and South-East Asian venue Lilymu.
