In 2018, Jeremy Agha’s grandfather decided he wanted to retire. He had owned a traditional Lebanese bakery in Guildford since 1989.
Agha had never been involved in the industry, but he’d spent his younger years eating and working part time at the bakery.
“So when it came time for him to retire, it felt like the right move was to put my hand up and buy into the business, as opposed to seeing it go to someone else. Since then, it’s been seven years and I’ve never looked back,” Agha tells Hospitality.
The bakery evolved into a Guildford staple, with Agha developing it from a bakery to a Middle Eastern brunch spot. As it became more popular, the limited space proved challenging.
“The next step was to take it to where we are today, which is a full blown Middle Eastern breakfast, lunch, and soon to be dinner venue with 75 seats,” says Agha.
This new restaurant is Iftar, set within Merrylands’ Maison and Main, a “lifestyle” development by Coronation Property that comprises five residential buildings alongside retail and dining.
Agha, who is from Merrylands, has watched the area develop over the years. So when the opportunity arose to join the precinct he jumped at it with open arms, keen to be part of the developments that have seen Merrylands change into the hotspot it is today.
Agha worked with Matt Woods on the fitout, which is characterised by a terracotta palate and organic aesthetic. “He’s a phenomenal designer,” says Agha. “I think he’s the best at what he does in Australia. I gave him a very simple three-point brief and since he did the design we haven’t changed a single thing.”
“The brief was: earthy tones, Middle Eastern-inspired, and natural materials. For him to take those three things and deliver what he has in partnership with my builders, Regera, is truly remarkable,” says Agha.
Agha’s mother Rita’s recipes are a source of inspiration for the menu. While Iftar translates to “break-fast” in Arabic, the restaurant’s name is also a nod to his mum’s name.
“Iftar can’t be spelt without the letters of her name – there’s no Iftar without Mum. It’s as much her story as it is mine,” says Agha.
“In terms of menu development, in terms of recipes, and in terms of these early days being in the kitchen, she’s the engine room. Without her there isn’t a single plate that leaves the kitchen that hasn’t been tasted or inspected. So, she’s hands on, she’s the brains, she’s a MasterChef. I’m just the pretty face that executes and delivers,” laughs Agha.
The marketing and branding strategy behind the restaurant is well rounded, with Agha putting significant depth of thought into each aspect, from social media – he’s developing the brand over Instagram by starting with fit out and backstory, before eventually moving to food – to engaging a public relations team to help attract media publicity.
“Since opening, the response to little things that we thought about in the last 12 months has been incredible, like our branding, our custom plating, our custom crockery, and our own branded olive oils and pickles that we use in house. Little notes like this have made it easier for our name to get out there in such a short period of time. You can’t take a photo in Iftar without Iftar being seen,” says Agha.
A high level of detail allows small things to become part of the brand, from the Venetian plastered roof, to the Berkel slicer imported from Italy.
The menu is similarly unique, taking Middle Eastern staples and updating them with a contemporary, often cross-cultural twist, such as the shawarma tacos or the wagyu kofta dumplings.
“Middle Eastern dining is about so much more than food, it’s the experience of filling a table with loved ones, sharing stories and savouring flavours together. At Iftar, we want every guest to feel that warmth and generosity, as though they’ve been welcomed into our home,” says Agha.
While the restaurant softly launched just before Christmas, it officially welcomed customers on January 18. It’s now open from 7am to 3pm for walk ins only.
Photography Lucia B Creative
